Colman Andrews 2017 book, “The British Table: A New Look at the Traditional Cooking of England, Scotland and Wales”
An exhaustive exploration of the origins and evolution of British food and drink over the centuries, the 328-page tabletop book includes more than 150 recipes from top London chefs to rustic dishes from all corners of the British Isles, as well as travel anecdotes, profiles of cheese makers and specialty food purveyors, and detailed histories of regional foods.
Editorial director of “The Daily Meal,” books by Andrews include his memoir, “My Usual Table: A Life in Restaurants,” “Catalan Cuisine,” The Country Cooking of Italy,” and “The Country Cooking of Ireland,” for which he won the James Beard 2010 Cookbook of the Year Award.
In this Day interview, Andrews talks about his new book and why English food, once discounted as bland and colorless, is now being “celebrated and reinterpreted by leading chefs.” Like him.
“The British Table: A New Look at the Traditional Cooking of England, Scotland and Wales” (Abrams, New York) by Coleman Andrews, color photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton.
Who is Colman Andrews?
Colman Andrews takes new look at traditional English cooking in The British Table,‘ by Amy J. Barry with Colman Andrews in The Day, Published February 7, 2017. About The Day: The Day Publishing Company, established in 1881 by John A. Tibbits, publishes The Day, a daily newspaper covering a 20-town region in eastern Connecticut with a daily and Sunday readership of nearly 100,000, and theday.com, a website generating more than 4 million page views a month (also publishes Mystic Country magazine/visitor guide).
Colman Andrews tells us: "Along with good English mustard, horseradish is a favorite British condiment for roast beef and other meats. There are good bottled versions available (Colman's is the standard), but it's easy to make your own, especially these days when fresh horseradish root is increasingly available at farmers' markets." He's right. I've seen those ugly roots in lots of supermarkets. The key is in the peeling. See my notes at the end!
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 cup crème fraîche
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons grated peeled fresh horseradish root
Whisk the cream, crème fraîche, and sugar together in a small bowl, then stir in lemon juice and fold in horseradish root. Makes about 1 cup
Note: This recipe appears in 'The British Table: A New Look at the Traditional Cooking of England, Scotland and Wales' (Abrams, New York) by Colman Andrews, color photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton. The recipe was reprinted in The Day.
* Crème fraîche is available at some grocery stores and specialty food markets. Liberté makes a tub version.
* Horseradish root: Horseradish root can turn green if exposed to light be stored, so should be kept covered in paper towel, in a cool dark place, like the vegetable crisper.
What the recipe doesn't say: Horseradish root can literally take your breath away. For a fantastic tutorial on peeling and cutting horseradish, see this really good post on Serious Eats. Warning: the longer you wait to add the vinegar, the stronger the horseradish will get – to your peril! Once added, the vinegar "puts a stop to the process." Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area.
Other books and resources
Colman Andrews is listed as the editorial director of “The Daily Meal” website and blog. Books by Andrews include his memoir, “My Usual Table: A Life in Restaurants,” “Catalan Cuisine,” The Country Cooking of Italy,” and “The Country Cooking of Ireland,” for which he won the James Beard 2010 Cookbook of the Year Award.